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Outside Magazine, October 2007
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30th Anniversary Special
The Ski Gene (cont.)

Paumergarten
LIKE FATHER, LIKE SON: on King Richard (Paolo Marchesi)

WE FLEW THE NEXT morning, poking up through clouds and mist to sneak in a few runs. The variable light and temperatures were still wacky, but the runs were splendid, including the finest of the trip, a 4,500-foot glacial drop called French Connection: a pitch of fresh winter snow on top giving way to a mile of perfect corn. We wound up in a meadow and, removing our skis, milled around with a kind of postcoital contentment. My father gave Xander and me a squeeze, a gesture indicating the emotional equivalent of planetary alignment. He had tasted the good stuff, and he was with his boys. Also, he had been jittery on top, spooked by a fairly exposed landing spot. "I didn't like it there," he said.

"I know you didn't," Xander said. "I didn't either."

"You know who really wouldn't have liked it?"

"Mom."

She'd have liked the snow, though. Corn is like heroin. The more you get, the more you need. But on our next run the snow turned—wet slides creeping down the steeps—and the morning abruptly ended. We would not ski again.

Still, our spirits held. We knew enough to realize that this is how it goes sometimes and that to have had any time together in these mountains at all, without mishap, was a gift. And, it being June, winter, the next one, was not terribly far off.

Paumergarten
Nick Sr. and guide Jim Knudsen fishing the Atnarko River (Paolo Marchesi)

On our last full day, we went back out on the river, floating the lower section of the Atnarko to its confluence with the Talchako, where, the Swede announced, the salmon were sure to be. We fished the pools there but to no avail, and so we resigned ourselves to another scenic float trip. My father resumed his pestering of Jim, once again ticking off his oarsman bona fides: "I was in Sports Illustrated—twice!" He told a story from his college days about rowing on the Schuylkill River in Philadelphia and coming upon a dead body in the river. He said, "It was the guy who wouldn't let me row."

About a mile from the take-out, during one of those silences that settles on a riverboat, Jim said suddenly, "You ready?" He vacated the oars, and my father took over. Jim sat down next to me in the bow and announced that he did not know how to swim.

My father steered us past a logjam and into some fast water that Jim had urged him to avoid. The boat pitched its way through a wave train, the river lapping at the gunwales. Jim sat bolt upright, palms on his thighs. "Nervous?" I asked him.

"I was born nervous," he said.

Our new captain was all smiles.




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