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Outside Magazine, October 2008
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Wilderness Living
The Cabin of My Dreams
Ever fantasized about building a restful escape, with your bare hands, in some untrammeled back of beyond—and it all coming together just as you'd planned? Moron.

By Patrick Symmes

Cabin of My Dreams
(Shout)

COMEDY IS TRAGEDY PLUS TIME, and I'm telling you, not enough time has passed. Two years now and my friends automatically start cracking up when anyone says, "How's your cabin?"

I just get mad. I don't get the joke, presumably because I am the joke. All I wanted to do was stop talking about, and finally build, a cabin. Yet when you reach the end of this story, I won't have driven one nail.

It's not really my fault, this boondoggle. Real estate is more or less the male biological clock. There is some hardwired imperative that kicks in at a certain point, the way caribou migrate and birds sing. Around the start of their fifth decade, men suddenly discover gardening. They plant trees. They lay down fence lines. They construct and hold. Like a spoiled child, we say, This is mine. Mine, mine, mine.

Hideouts 101: Before You Begin
LOCATION: Consider travel time and flight costs. Visit the area in every season: A mountainside retreat in Costa Rica might be ideal in February, but come September the rain may render the roads impassable. Plan to stay most of the year? Many countries, like Canada, consider you a resident after six months; you'll need to apply for immigrant status. THE SEARCH: Get yourself a good lawyer familiar with both the local laws and those at home, and find a trustworthy real estate agent who speaks English and knows the local market. Familiarize yourself with the local haggling customs. The asking price could be a pie-in-the-sky figure or a starting point. BEFORE YOU SIGN: Know the pros and cons of various forms of financing. A second mortgage on your primary home could help secure your retreat, but if you ever fell behind on payments, both properties would be in danger. Take into account all the costs associated with buying the property—lawyer fees, notary fees, bank charges, etc. And don't forget taxes. Sweden and Israel, for example, have very complicated and expensive taxes, and you'll often be responsible for items like transfer taxes, wealth taxes, capital-gains taxes (if you choose to sell the property), and perhaps even income taxes, in addition to standard property taxes. And who holds the title? In Mexico, foreigners aren't allowed to own coastal property and must buy it through a trust agreement, wherein they enjoy virtually all ownership rights, but a Mexican bank trust holds the title. Get title insurance to protect against spurious ownership claims. CONSTRUCTION: Though you may be able to stay on schedule and under budget, don't be naive: Extra time and money is the norm. Make good connections with local contractors and workers before attempting to build. Hire a contractor familiar with local building codes. Always insist on written quotes for construction work and get invoices when jobs are completed.
—RYAN KROGH

Building a cabin in the wilderness is a nearly universal dream. Honestly, if you haven't had it at some point, there's something wrong with you. In college, I wasted hours with my buddy Tim arguing over where we would build our dream shack. Montana? Oregon? Hawaii? Years later, he came back from New Zealand, raving about how we could build it there.

Reality intrudes on such plans. Tim went into finance and worked long hours to support his five kids. I spent those years wandering everywhere without coming to roost anywhere. I never found that piece of peace and quiet I'd been imagining.

And then the clock started ticking. In my late thirties, my only assets—a tiny Manhattan sublet and a rusting motorcycle—came to feel inadequate. The dream cabin, with its imaginary forest, grew slowly into a compulsion. Certainly, it was an inversion of the real life I was leading with a press card in my pocket, working in war zones and Third World quagmires. Whenever something went wrong, which was often, I would catch myself dreaming about the cabin again. A cozy little bolt-hole. Some gentle spot where no one would point a gun at me. A "crucible of calm," as Teddy Roosevelt's place in the Badlands was called.

I started skimming from paychecks. The worse the place or the experience, the more I set aside: $1,000 after a nasty brush with the guerrillas in Colombia; $2,000 for walking into a mine field in Afghanistan; a drug gang in Brazil; teenage muggers in Havana; several Asian insurgencies. All I wanted was the basics: some running water—as in a trout stream—and a star-strewn sky. But after five years, I'd saved a mere $20,000, which wouldn't buy a garden shed in Montana's Paradise Valley.

I looked elsewhere, out of necessity. Oregon had been bid up by Californians; West Virginia colonized by D.C. weekenders; the Adirondacks cheap only in their boggiest, northernmost reaches, five or six hours from New York City. Since anything I could afford was beyond the reach of weekend use anyway, I began to accept what my heart had been screaming all along: Go south, young man!




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Contributing editor PATRICK SYMMES is the author of Chasing Che: A Motorcycle Journey in Search of the Guevara Legend (Knopf).

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