Outside Online
advertisement
  • Home
  • Travel
  • Gear
  • Bodywork
  • Culture
  • Blog
  • Videos
  • Podcasts
  • Photos
  • Archives
  • Subscribe
Subscribe to Outside Magazine


You Are Here:   Home  >>   Only the Mountain Knows

Outside Blog
  • Nobel and Not So Noble Prizes
  • The Spoke Word: The Past at the ...
  • Water Filters: Not So Green Either
  • Donations Sought for Everest ER
  • Field Tested: Lupine Betty 6 Bike ...
Podcasts
  • Q&A: Climbing El Capitan with Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin, and Ivo Ninov listen
  • Q&A: Maggie Anthony On Son Eric Volz listen
  • Q&A: Photographer Danny Clinch listen
  • Q&A: "Coca Is It!" Author Joshua Hammer listen
  • Q&A: "Strange Bird" Author Carl Hoffman listen
  • Out of Bounds: That '70s Guy listen
Videos
  • Jack Johnson Cover Shoot
  • Grand Canyon: 3D IMAX
  • Climbing El Capitan
  • Castaway:
  • Episode 1: The Arrival
  • Episode 2: The Quest for Fire
  • Episode 3: Mmm...Slime Nuggets
  • Episode 4: "Last Night, a Crab Tried to Eat Me."
Ask Dave
  • What kind of dog will make me look manlier? answer
  • Is there a sport that safely combines my twin passions for guns and kayaks? answer
  • How come most of the world's cultures enjoy eating goat, but Americans don't? answer
The Wild File
  • Why do mosquito bites itch? answer
  • Are elite athletes just lucky genetic mutants? answer
  • Can women really tolerate cold water better than men? answer

Online Favorites

  • "Into Thin Air"
  • Best Adventure Books
  • The O Files: Unsolved Mysteries
  • Dream Towns
  • Dream Jobs

Special Issues

  • Family Road Trips
  • Interactive Colorado
  • Literary All-Stars
  • Adventure Lodges
  • Oceanic Endeavors
  • Adventure Goddesses

Photo Galleries

  • Mark Jenkins in Tibet
  • Syria
  • Bhutan
  • Women Who Rock
  • Kelly Slater
  • Olympic Cities
  • Exposure: Sara Carlson
  • See All Galleries
share this article del.icio.us DIGG Facebook StumbleUpon

Outside Magazine, November 2006

Unsolved Mysteries
Only the Mountain Knows
Who summited Cerro Torre first?

By Tim Sohn

Intro | Adrift | Eaten Alive? | Gold in Them Hills | Treachery at Sea | Disturbing the Dead | Swallowed Up | Only the Mountain Knows | Strange Geometry | Fatal Ride | Face Scratcher | Mystery Writer | Swept Away | Final Patrol | No "X" Marks the Spot | Cracks in Creation

Italian climbing legend Cesare Maestri has spent nearly half a century refuting those who dispute his 1959 ascent of Patagonia's 10,262-foot Cerro Torre, and he's getting tired of it. "His defense? 'Listen to me, damn you! I did it, I did it. How can you doubt my word? I am Cesare Maestri. If you doubt me, you doubt the whole history of mountaineering,' " says Italian journalist Giorgio Spreafico, paraphrasing Maestri, with whom he spent time while researching his recent book, Enigma Cerro Torre. Maestri's claimed first ascent, with Austrian Toni Egger, would rank as one of the most stunning mountaineering feats in history: a seven-day conquest of an infamously difficult peak, in unfavorable weather conditions, via an exceptionally technical route. Its tragic end—Egger was swept to his death by an avalanche during the descent, taking with him their only camera—and subsequent lack of corroboration fanned the flames of one of climbing's most contentious debates.

For many, the climb surpassed the limits of plausibility, and doubts emerged almost immediately. In 1976, an American team made the first ascent of neighboring Torre Egger (named in memory of Maestri's late climbing partner) via a route that retraced the first half of the Maestri-Egger line. "I went from being very pro-Maestri before that climb to absolutely 110 percent convinced that he had not climbed Cerro Torre in 1959," recalls team leader Jim Donini, 63. "For the first thousand feet, it was like climbing in a vertical museum, there was so much stuff—old pitons and carabiners and bits of rope—and then above that, nothing." Adding to the lack of material evidence, Donini found that virtually everything in Maestri's description of the route above that first thousand-foot face was erroneous.

The doubters' case gained strength in November 2005, when the Italian climbing team of Ermanno Salvaterra, Alessandro Beltrami, and Rolando Garibotti made the next—or first—ascent of Cerro Torre via the alleged Maestri-Egger route. "I felt even before going up there that there were just too many inconsistencies," says Garibotti, 35, who has written extensively on the subject. "And once you go up there and have a look around," he says, "you cannot help but sort of chuckle, because nothing matches his description."

For his part, Maestri and his defenders have stuck to his original story, arguing that mountains can change, that avalanches can sweep away evidence, and that memory is fallible—especially after 50 years. As powerful as any defense is Maestri himself, embittered by the fight against those who would impugn his name and that of his fallen friend. According to Spreafico, Maestri has dreamed of an earthquake destroying Cerro Torre—though even that could hardly be expected to end the debate.



Next Page: The Bermuda Triangle's horrors

Intro | Adrift | Eaten Alive? | Gold in Them Hills | Treachery at Sea | Disturbing the Dead | Swallowed Up | Only the Mountain Knows | Strange Geometry | Fatal Ride | Face Scratcher | Mystery Writer | Swept Away | Final Patrol | No "X" Marks the Spot | Cracks in Creation



Frequent contributor TIM SOHN recently completed his master's in history at Cambridge University.

• Subscribe to Outside and get a FREE Gift!

• Give the gift of Outside Magazine!

• Subscribe to Outside Online's free weekly e-mail newsletter featuring gear reviews, fitness advice, galleries, podcasts, and more.
BlogVideosPodcastsPhotos
TODAY'S NEWS UPDATE!
Nobel and Not So Noble Prizes
Nobel Prize announcements began today with three scientists receiving prizes in medicine. Harald zur ...

The Spoke Word: The Past at the ...
Let's see: Tyler Hamilton will be racing in the U.S. national champion's jersey next season. Floyd...

More Blogs:
  • Water Filters: Not So Green Either
  • Donations Sought for Everest ER
  • Field Tested: Lupine Betty 6 Bike ...
  • Featured Blog: Green Issues
  • Blog Home
Photo Guide
The tricks, tips, and gear of our favorite photographers.
photo guide video Watch

Parkour video
Parkour
El Cap video
El Cap
Drilling video
Drilling

More Videos:
  • Fittest Real Athletes
  • Malia Jones
  • Adventure Filmmaking School
  • The Ultimate Grill
  • See all Videos
Mike Rowe Speaks
Mike Rowe talks about his long strange trip to TV's dirtiest dream job.
Mike Rowe podcast Listen

Q&A: Climbing El Capitan with Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin, and Ivo Ninov
Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin, and Ivo Ninov on guiding Dave Hahn.
El Capitan podcast Listen

More Podcasts:
  • Q&A: Maggie Anthony On Son Eric Volz
  • Q&A: Photographer Danny Clinch
  • Q&A: "Coca Is It!" Author Joshua Hammer
  • Q&A: "Strange Bird" Author Carl Hoffman
  • See all Podcasts
Malia Jones photo gallery
Malia Jones
pirate photo gallery
Pirates
Rwanda photo gallery
Rwanda

Burma photo gallery
Burma
Julia Mancuso photo gallery
Julia Mancuso
Amanda Beard photo gallery
A. Beard

More Photos:
  • Cousteaus
  • Cuba
  • Rally Car
  • Submit Your Own Photo
  • See all Photos

advertisement




Subscribe to Outside Magazine!

Crocs Inspiring Soles

special featrues

Gear Spotlight: Adventure Electronics
Our esteemed Gear Guy hones in the FAQs of the digital world in this exclusive archive.
The Green Issue
Earth Day may fall in April, but global awareness should be a 365-day concern. Let us help you stay focused.




Vacation Packages

More Travel Deals
  • Mexico Vacation Packages from $505
  • Getaway in September from $151
  • End of Summer Beach Vacations from $496
  • Spend a Weekend in Vegas from $207
Sign up for our Travel Deals Newsletter


More From Outside Online

Outside August 2008

  • Best Towns
  • Jeff Lowe
  • Burma Cyclone
  • Triathlon Training

Special Issues

  • 2008 Summer Buyer's Guide
  • 2008 Winter Buyer's Guide
  • Outside Blog
  • Unsolved Mysteries

Outside July 2008

  • Andy Roddick
  • Fitness Special
  • Summer Road Trips
  • Canadian Adventures

Online Exclusives

  • Spooky Spots and Terrible Tales
  • Literary All-Stars
  • Oceanic Endeavors
  • Adventure Goddesses

Outside June 2008

  • Malia Jones
  • Weekend Escapes
  • Satellite Radio
  • Joe Papp

Online Favorites

  • Outside Gear Blog
  • Gear Guy
  • Fitness Q&A
  • Adventure Adviser

Outside May 2008

  • Anderson Cooper
  • Best Jobs 2008
  • Surf Genius
  • Russell Brice

Outside Classics

  • Into Thin Air
  • The Whale Hunters
  • Raising the Dead
  • The Long Way Home


Vacation Ideas from The Away Network

Outside's Best Towns 2008

  • Crested Butte, CO
  • New Orleans, LA
  • Portsmouth, NH
  • Washington, DC
  • Rest of the Best

Gay-Friendly Vacation Guides

  • Asia
  • Europe
  • South America
  • United States
  • All Vacation Destinations

Best Fall Foliage

  • Black Hills National Forest
  • Glacier National Park
  • Great Smoky Mountains
  • Monongahela National Forest
  • Shenandoah National Park

Trip-Planning Tools

  • Cheap Flights 101
  • Cheap Hotels 101
  • Compare Rates
  • Travel Insurance Tips
  • Vacation Rentals Index

Top Scenic Drives

  • California's Deserts
  • Mountain Tours
  • Upstate New York
  • Weekend Road Trips
  • See All Drives

GORP's Fall Outdoor Guides

  • Where to Camp
  • Where to Fish
  • Where to Hike
  • Where to Mountain Bike
  • All Fall Guides

GORPTravel Trips

  • Active Resorts
  • Horses & Riding
  • Nature Observation
  • Culinary Tours
  • Volunteer Vacations

Fall Travel Guides

  • Active Travel
  • Cultural Travel
  • Outdoor Travel
  • Romantic Travel
  • All Monthly Travel Guides



  • Home |
  • Travel |
  • Gear |
  • Bodywork |
  • Culture |
  • Videos |
  • Podcasts |
  • Photos |
  • Archives |
  • Feedback |
  • RSS Feeds |
  • Subscribe to Outside Magazine |
  • Join/Login




  • About Outside |
  • Advertise |
  • Terms of Use |
  • Subscription Services |
  • Sponsorship Policy |
  • Outside Info |
  • Site Map |
  • Press Room

  • Outside Magazine Media Kit |
  • Photo Department |
  • Privacy Policy |
  • Contact Us |
  • Contributor's Guidelines

Partner Sites:
  • Away.com |
  • GORP.com |
  • Orbitz |
  • Cheaptickets |
  • ebookers |
  • HotelClub.com |
  • RatesToGo.com |
  • asia-hotels.com |
  • Outside's Go


©1994-2008 Mariah Media Inc. All rights reserved.
Reproduction of material from any pages without written permission is strictly prohibited.