November 28, 2000


How can I keep my crampons from falling off?

Are there some tricks I can learn to help keep my crampons mounted securely on my boots? The crampons seem to provide a great fit on the boot with the toe bail and clamp, and yet when the safety strap starts to work its way loose, it's all over: bye-bye crampon. Are there any additional back-up strap inventions I can try or other tips for keeping the straps from coming loose?

— Tim Reykjav’k Iceland

Jeepers, that's not good. I remember climbing the Sandy Headwall on Mount Hood in Oregon some years back -— a 45- to 50-degree slope of hard snow and ice —- when somebody's crampon came off. He had to sort of hop on one foot up to a (fortunately) nearby flat spot.

But, I currently use crampons much like yours, and I can't say that I've had any problem with the strap that extends from the ankle to the toe (usually called a "lanieres" strap). Certainly, the system is designed to hang together on its own without additional straps or retrofits. I suppose the obvious thing is to simply ensure you have the buckle threaded correctly, as that could account for a slipping strap. But, I suspect you've already checked that and now are mightily insulted.

The only other idea that comes to mind is that the boots aren't stiff enough for those particular crampons. As they flex, they're perhaps allowing the strap to tug on the buckle, then release the tension, working the strap loose over a period of time. Most crampons of this type are meant for fairly heavy boots, so it's a possibility.

Otherwise I'm stumped. There must be a climbing shop in Reykjavik that can take a look at your boot and crampon setup and make suggestions. As I said, you shouldn't have to rig up anything new to make the crampons stay on.

If all else fails, send them to the manufacturer with a note explaining the problem. Maybe there's been a recall for that buckle, and the maker can replace it.

Keep your points down!